South Down The Eastern Shore

Early to bed, early to rise. It was important to get an early start today as to avoid and issues with the church service. We did not have time to make breakfast and coffee despite having bags of the stuff. We rode for a few hours before arriving in Exmore and stopping at McD to get use the WIFI and have a cup of coffee.

A few hours of McD WIFI and I am fairly certain we were cutoff as the connection failed and would not work for the laptop or phone. That was our sign to get back on the road and ride again. As we continued down Route 13 we saw fields of white in the distance and when we finally got close enough we realized it was cotton, one of the historic staples of the US economy. Neither Amanda nor myself can recall ever seeing cotton fields in bloom so we spent some time investigating the stuff. Noticing a massive amount of bugs walking on the puffy blooms, we decided it was time to go. We aren’t sure what it was, but it wasn’t the dreaded boll weevil.

Our ride went further and further down the peninsula we passed a sign for the Barrier Island Center. We pulled off the road and down the drive and waited for a while watching a graduation photo shoot of a dog training class. After a bit a gentleman came over and told us despite the center being technically closed his wife, a committee member, said we could go inside. The museum told the history of the barrier island, a large portion of the first floor recounted the rescue of a wrecked ship using a Lyle gun to shoot lines to the ship. It was a fascinating and educational stop and one we are glad to have made.


We stopped at Kipoteke State Park to cook dinner and spend the night. Riding around the park we found ourselves on the windy bay-side of the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. In the distance we could not make out what the odd shapes were out in the water. Finally finding a sign we learned about the Philadelphia made concrete ships, formerly used for cargo around the time of WWII, they now made up a breakwater and habitat for bird and marine life.

Backtracking away from the windy shoreline, we found a picnic table and Amanda made dinner while I ran back to catch a photo of the setting sun, our last night on the Eastern Shore Peninsula.


  1. Oh man, you two are travelers after my own heart! McD for coffee and WIFI, cotton fields (I passed after the harvest so they were a bit less lively), the Eastern Shore of Virginia and US-13. I had to ride US-13 in the rain and low vis so when the shoulders disappeared I was sprinting to get to the next protected section. What a day! I almost tried to camp at that NASA facility, I forget where I ended up that night. In a creek?

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